Thursday, December 23, 2010

The Myriad of Faces

If there ever was a faster transition from Ghana to mass materialism and excessive consumer culture than an AIRPORT, I haven't known it...

The airport truly is a fascinating bubble of society. As you rush out of the plane, you are immediately lured left and right by shiny, beautiful things. Designer purses, designer watches, designer perfumes, and you can't even get a bottle of water for less than $5. Notwithstanding the overwhelmedness this facilitates in me as I guiltily window shop, and browse the aisles of deliciously enormous chocolate bars, bestselling books, airbrushed magazines, sparkling watches and crystals, and spray myself with perfume I will never buy, I am almost equally enthralled with the beautiful people- not just the products- that flood the airport.

As I sit here in Amsterdam, enjoying a cup of green tea and 1 hour of free wifi, there is an endless rush of people walking to and fro, coming from one flight, moving to the next. The myriad of faces is enchanting. Woman wearing 5 inch high heels, men carrying babies, couples holding hands, couples arguing, children sleeping, flight attendants walking, always smiling- like mannequins. Some people are fat and some are quite thin. Some look African, others European, some look Asian, some you can't really tell.. some carry with them enough hand luggage to throw a flight attendant into a fit, and others simply carry themselves. Some are dressed for this cold weather, others clearly come from warm climates. Some have small fancy laptops and blackberries, while others look humbly, innocently lost in the airport- first timers? Some are sneezing- a cold from Canada, other look weak and tired- Malaria from Ghana? Some carry more wealth on their fingers than entire communities have collectively, and most seem at the very least comfortable, if not "well off". Where are they all going? Where are they all coming from?

I suspect that the airport is comprised of a specific, select range of people, with some nearly excluded, or in a serious minority. With recent experiences of qualified, educated Ghanaians being rejected Canadian visas to come to EWB's National Conference , I know that for many, many people in this world, travel is a luxury and one that vast numbers will likely never enjoy in their lifetimes.

As Christmas Carols and decorations begin to swamp my world, I am finally coming to the realization that Christmas is just a few days away now... and Christmas is always an opportune time to show gratitude for all the grace, favour, and opportunities that we enjoy.

When I see this myriad of faces I marvel at a world so vast, so diverse.. and yet, we are all one.

I love you all. May this Christmas be an exceptionally memorable one.

Friday, December 10, 2010

Seeing every disability as a mere challenge



Meet Salifu Sandow, and join me in congratulating him. In Ghana I have seen countless people on the street begging for money; granted likely fewer than many other developing countries, but it is still commonplace to see beggars on the street- often in wheel chairs, blind, limbs lost, etc..

Though Salifu is in a wheel chair, he is not one of these "disabled" Ghanaians. His innovation, commitment, and work ethic haven't been paralyzed by his disability, nor caused him to revert to begging.

Last week, I visited him in his home, with the family he is supporting, as a result of his farming activities. We came to inform him that he had been selected as the Regional Best Physically Challenged Farmer for MoFA's Annual Farmer's Day Celebration.

Meeting Salifu reminded me that though every person has "disabilities"- flaws, weaknesses, and shortcomings... we should perceive them as mere challenges.. a challenge can be overcome. Through perseverance and commitment, you can still succeed. He is the kind of Ghanaian I revel in seeing, knowing, and learning from. He inspires me that change is possible.

Never forget that you can beat the odds, and no matter how difficult change may seem; remember that you are ABLE....

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

A Microcosm of African Brain Drain

Brain Drain: the unfortunate reality that most of Africa's most intelligent, educated people end up leaving Africa to work in a country that is richer and more profitable. From the outside, it is easy to say that they should stay in Africa. Invest in their country. Use their skills to benefit the next generation of their people. But in many cases, a job abroad can pay more than quadruple their home country, not to mention living conditions, infrastructure, etc. But.. Can you really blame them?

I knew about this phenomenon, but have more recently come face to face with a microcosm of brain drain here in Africa. Ghana can relatively easily be divided into two; the North and the South- though this oversimplification often frustrates me, I confess that in many ways the North and South of the country are vastly different. The North is characterized by a drier, more extreme climate, poorer quality of education, higher prevalence of Islam, and perhaps are about 50 years behind the development of the South (as a result of slave trade, gold, cocoa, and general colonization all along the Souths coast, on the Atlantic.)

Some people in the South talk generally about "Northerners"; about how they are backwards, rough, aggressive, etc. Similarly, Northerners can have oversimplified perspectives of those in the South- as unfairly privileged, rich, full of opportunities, etc.

Because the best schools are in the South, any Northerner who is fortunate enough to complete their primary education in the North, and is brilliant, is almost guaranteed to further their schooling in the south. After graduation, how much do you think they are pulled back to the North? This is like a Zambian-educated Doctor who finds work in London...

A friend recently told me that Ghana's best lawyers are Northerners- but you'd never know it because they are all based in the South. It is very likely that these few, top "Northerners" are sending back money to their family in the North, it is probable that they are helping to pay school fees of some of their siblings/relatives, and that they visit on holidays; but it is highly unlikely anyone could convince that person to come back to the North to settle permanently.

So you see a picture where all the brilliant, educated, trained, exceptional Northerners end up contributing to the economy in the South, and the North remains closer to stagnant as vast numbers go uneducated, barely literate, or merely basic education. Some Southerners may come to work in the North- but this is almost always a temporary situation; and not something they are proud of. I can't count the number of southern Ghanaians I know that have never even been to the North- not once, "Why would I go there?", they ask.

Quite often, someone of the street will be greeting me jokingly, and say that I should send them to my country. More seriously, people I know well in Ghana often state that they'd love to go study abroad. I have often told people my very biased opinion quite openly- "I wish you would stay here." Or, "fine, if you go to do your masters in the UK, come back to Ghana. Ghana needs people like you." Is this arrogant of me?

I ask the question again- can I really blame them for wanting a better life for themselves? If you knew you could double, triple, or quadruple your salary by moving- would you stay where you were, out of the goodness of your heart, to sacrifice and give back to your community?

I am inspired and touched by the Ghanaians I know who are entirely committed to staying in Ghana. Even some have been abroad, to UK or US, and have come back and are still convicted that they should stay in Ghana. This is promising. The future of Ghana lies heavily on the shoulders of Ghanaians. Though westerners will come and go, and foreign aid and charity may abound, real, lasting change and transformation - I believe- will be borne out of a generation of Ghanaians who want to see change in their country and are ready and willing to enact and ignite that change for a better Ghana.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brain_drain

Sunday, November 28, 2010

What have your hands got to say?



















Take a minute, and look at your hands. What colour are they? How do they feel? What (if anything) is on your fingers?

Prior to coming to Ghana, I never thought much about my hands.. except that I didn't like them. They were too big, somehow not feminine enough. I'd been told they were long and would make me a good pianist- but I still have yet to learn the piano. Apart from being a fast typist on the computer, which helped me in writing papers during University, I never really thought twice about my hands.

On several occasions, I'll greet someone in Ghana and we'll shake hands and then snap together (I'll have to show you this in person). And many a time, the person will remark; "You have such soft hands!"

My host brothers in Wamale often want to just hold my hand or rub my palm because "it is so smooth"..

This post is not to brag about my hands, but to ask; what have your hands got to say? What do your hands say about who you are? What you do? What you can do? What you have done?

If you look at my hands, apart from being big, I have long nails. Mostly because I am not consistent with cutting/filing them, and they grow fast. I have never worn acrylic nails but have almost always had relatively long nails. In Ghana, especially rural Ghana, this shows people that you are wealthy, and that you are not a farmer. Long nails mean you don't do a lot of physical labour, and certainly don't weed, plant, or harvest. You probably don't wash your own clothes or weave baskets or braid hair or wash bowls.. you probably have an office job, "real work"... Some in Ghana, even males, will keep their pinky fingernail long intentionally...

My point; the length of your nails says a lot about your position and lifestyle.

Having soft hands and white, white palms is like icing on an already luxurious cake. Your hands are soft: you probably- no, you definitely!- haven't been washing dishes by hand or scrubbing clothes by hand your whole life. It's clear I've been blessed/spoiled with dishwashers and washer/dryers my whole life in Canada.

And I think it's self explanatory, the perception of you when you have a huge diamond ring on your finger, or even silver ones..

I remember shaking Amos' hands, after he had been working in the mines for several months. They were swollen, with blisters, and almost as rough as sandpaper.. I almost felt embarrassed to shake his, knowing what he would say about mine subsequently.

Just another example of how something so insignificant to me growing up, is now something I am conscious of, almost every time I greet and shake someone's hands.

What do your hands say about you?

Tuesday, November 23, 2010

This is my perspective..



Hello my dear friends, family, colleagues, distant acquaintances, strangers..

I'm taking part in The Perspectives Challenge this holiday season to raise funds for Engineers Without Borders and get people asking important questions about the way we approach development in Africa. After over 14 months in Ghana, I am more passionate and hopeful than ever.

I've shared my perspective on an important part of Engineers Without Borders' work and beliefs, and I invite you to read it here:

If you like my perspective, and/or the work EWB is doing to alleviate poverty in Africa, please donate generously to Engineers Without Borders today and help me achieve my personal goal of raising $3000. It's simple and easy - all you have to do is click the donate now button.

I assure you your donation will go to a reputable Canadian charity doing important work in Canada and Africa. 87% of every donation goes directly to that work - EWB has one of the lowest overhead budgets in the country thanks largely to thousands of volunteers (students and professionals) logging unbelievable hours. Take a look at my perspective and feel free to ask me any questions you might have - this isn't just about money. And when you donate to EWB you are helping to create lasting change, not ongoing charity.


Thanks for your continued support,

With love and immense gratitude, Robin Stratas

Monday, October 25, 2010

From the diamond mine to the classroom.. an update on Amos




Amos continues to be an inspiration to me. Even now.

As you may remember, around this time last year I stayed in Abokobiisi and spent time with an amazing boy, Amos. When I came back from Canada, this August, I was setting myself up for the next year ahead.. what did I want to do differently in my second year in Ghana? How have I changed? What and who did I need to reconnect with?

This led me to take some time away from the office and get back to Abokobiisi. In the past year Amos and I continued to speak, mostly through the phone, just 1 visit in person, but I was eager to actually get back to where it all began for me, when I came here a year ago and started my placement with EWB. I wanted to see what had changed. Have those deep conversations with Amos again.. the kind that can't happen on 5 minute phone calls, text messages, but always happen as you sit together for hours each day in Abokobiisi.

So this experience began when I picked him up in Kumasi and we took at 7 hour bus to Tamale. From there, we spent the night in Wamale- and for the first time, my "Dagomba family" met a member of my "Fra Fra family" (they still eagerly await the arrival of my CANADIAN FAMILY!). We rose up early the next day and took a bus to Bolga, then a taxi to Sirigu, then a 90 minute walk to Abokobiisi.

I could write for days on my time there, the conversations we had, my reflections as I left them once again.. but instead, for now, I'll just narrow in on Amos. What has happened in the past year that has brought him to where he is now- what I consider to be a much better place.

When I left Abokobiisi September 2009, Amos had been out of school for nearly 2 years. Not because he wasn't brilliant; because of money. (In Ghana, though there are technically no "school fees" for primary school anymore, there still are for JSS and SSS). He was home, helping people farm, in attempts to save for his own school fees. He had nearly given up, but I encouraged him to keep preparing, hoping, and praying, and maybe he would get to go back to school. He was just too bright to be out of school.

There were several communication gaps in the past year, due to the fact that he didn't have a cell phone so every so often he would borrow someones phone to call me- but I could never reach him. At one point he called and said he was no longer in Abokobiisi- that he had gone South to make money..

This, for better or for worse, is very common for Northerners. At first, he was weeding. Whenever he could get work, he would weed for some money- and he said he was still saving for school, hoping that this year, 2010, he could finally go to Secondary School (SS).

He then called me and asked where I was. I said Kumasi.. before we knew it, we were both in Kumasi, having lunch together face to face. I learned that he was no longer weeding because it was less profitable (about 5 GHC per day), than Galamsey.

I have come to understand that Galamsey refers to mining in Ghana, often gold or diamonds, and is illegal.

Now, I see him face to face in October, and the first thing I notice about him is a wound on his face, and the stunningly swollen nature of his hands. He too, like many others, was injured during the job, in addition to the normal physical effects of the work. And his mine is the one where several Northerners just died. It is widely known that this work is dangerous, and yet many young, rural Ghanaians (often Northerners) willingly go into this work.

Amos explained the painstakingly laborious nature of the job, and that he saw diamonds almost daily.

He said the average working day was 7am to 5pm, and that on a good day they would get 9GHC, but depending on the amount of diamonds found, they could receive as little as 4GHC, or even nothing at all for the whole day's labour.

Through his work, he came in contact with a Pastor who was amazed by Amos' English fluency. He asked to see Amos' school results, and was shocked to see how a boy so brilliant could be stuck in a mine.

Though Amos' story continues to haunt me. Though his challenges and continued hardships always pull on my heart strings.. I am still, more than anything else, amazed by him. Despite the fact that I am sad that he is orphaned, with no parents alive, and the extended family members he has are unable to send their own children to school, let alone him. Though I experience waves of discomfort to think of how I was, how my days were, when I was his age. Still- more amazing than anything else is his heart, his wisdom, his perseverance, his kindness and gentleness, and his intolerance of failure, his refusal to give up. We are both so similar. And yet, there are vast differences.. though both our hands have touched diamonds and school books, the contexts have been completely and entirely different...

I am glad to say that as I write to you, Amos is not mining, but is in school.. in Accra- learning and expanding his knowledge. Putting his hands and his head to the books, not the mines.

(To find out more about Amos, or to offer any support to him, please feel free to contact me: robinstratas@ewb.ca.)

Friday, October 15, 2010

BABIES: books, breasts, bums and bias..


This blog is in response to the documentary BABIES. (http://www.focusfeatures.com/babies, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vupEpNjCuY).

For those who haven't seen it, I guess it's worth seeing... if only so that you can make your own judgments and see whether or not you agree with my perspective. And to be fair, there were some interesting moments, and hilarious clips... yet...

The problem with pictures of Africa is that they show a 1 dimensional image of the poor, rural, hopeless African.

This image is often disempowering, if not outright offensive and inaccurate. This documentary unfortunately is no exception. Through my time in Ghana, I have come to realize, time and again, that there is no one- type of Ghanaian, or African for that matter. There is no one generalization or stereotype that can apply to all. Just as in Canada, you have people who are shy and loud, fair and dark, rude and compassionate, I have seen the same spectrum of diversity in Ghana.

I have experienced first-hand that many Ghanaians are poor. Many live in mud huts, without electricity, without cars or even bicycles, without running water or even accessible clean water, without sanitary latrines, toilets, or any bathroom facility at all. This is probably the image of Ghana that you already had in your mind as soon as you learned that it was in fact a country in Africa.

But what many do not know, and what this documentary didn't show, was that there are also Ghanaians who are educated, and some who are quite wealthy. They live in houses, some even in mansions. Send their children to private schools. Eat icecream, burgers, fries. Dress in suits and high heels. Not only have televisions, but iphones, and blackberries, and SUVs and personal drivers and househelps.
Not to mention the vast number of Ghanaians who live in between these two extremes I've mentioned.

[This is a hot topic for me (quite obviously) and one I may have to beat like a dead horse before I feel I've expressed myself. Earlier you may have seen I posted several pictures showing these different sides of Ghana, the people and places I interact with here. Those pictures were trying to capture my rant above. ]

Watching Babies, a so called documentary about babies all around the world, was supposed to be a nice afternoon. Take my mind off work and stress and enjoy a movie about babies. Who doesn't like babies? I love cross-cultural documentaries! Well.. It wasn't long before I realized that, in my view, the thesis of the movie was actually more about wealth and poverty than anything else and incredibly biased (pro-rich white America). Not a bad idea entirely. More people will probably go to the theatre to watch babies, than if you called the movie POVERTY. But I wish, oh how I wish, that they used this opportunity to reach the general public and show them a different side of Africa, even a different side of America.

Throughout the movie, they go back and forth between 4 families from America to Namibia. But the essence of the documentary was showing how the rich, white, American family cares so attentively for the child, reading from her bookshelf with countless books.. All the while, showing the poor African baby who rolls around in the dirt, mother walking around half naked, smearing his dirty bum on her leg and using a piece of maize to wipe it clean.

I do not purport that some Africans do live in such conditions- incredibly remote, illiterate, impoverished.

I also do not purport that we should show rich, potentially corrupt and selfish, Africans so that viewers walk away thinking that Africa is just fine and we can all rest comfortably at night because poverty is gone.

What I would have loved to see would be a documentary that flips our presumptions about poverty on our heads, while still highlighting the commonalities of childhood worldwide. Instead of showing the wealthy, white American family, show the impoverished, underprivileged Mexican or African American family living in the slums of New York. Show Natives living on reserves in Canada. And show a Ghanaian family that has two working parents, 2 cars, children that go to school, come home and do their homework with the assistance of their attentive mother by the laptop with wireless internet, eat nutritious food, cry for more candy, and sleep in a comfortable bed at night. The same message of the universality of babies could have been portrayed, but without reinforcing cultural stereotypes.

My guess is that people went away from watching BABIES feeling grateful for their upbringing, because it was likely on the wealthy end of the scale. This is not a bad thing. Let people be grateful, see that things are quite different around the world, that materialism has become excessive in the West. But my guess is that people may also have went away thinking that "Africans are backwards" and that there is no hope investing in them, at best-give them aid.

Until Westerners see pictures of Africa that exemplify potential, not hopeless tragedy, Africa will always be seen as a patient not a partner, weak not strong, backwards not advanced. My prayer is that more and more, people will have exposure- either through personal travel experience, family or friends' experiences, or authentic media- to an Africa that makes them think twice about what social change needs to take place so that deserving Africans can fulfill the vast potential available inside themselves, and be respected and given the dignity they deserve. Then maybe the bridge of compassion and commitment will be formed across the Atlantic and we can intelligently work at solving world problems of inequality and injustice.

http://www.seeafricadifferently.com/

Monday, September 6, 2010

Are leaders born, made... or simply promoted?


I think we can all agree that North America is entrenched in leadership and management techniques, tests, and lingo.
Personally, with a mom working in IBM in "Leadership Development", a background in Education and Social Sciences, experience working with EWB and other volunteer organizations in Canada, and job experiences in Management in Canada, I deeply appreciate the need for a person to develop in their leadership/management capabilities.

Though I recognize that some people are "natural leaders", I believe that all people can and should focus on personal development, grow in their self awareness, and their ability to work effectively with people... especially if they are in management positions.

With HBR articles, countless books, and personality tests readily available, it seems like there are abundant ways to develop as a leader in Canada. But after some time in Ghana, I have recognized that these resources are not as readily available or promoted, and that there isn't as much of a conscious effort to DEVELOP people into managers.
For example, in the Ministry of Food and Agriculture, I was discussing with one of the Principals of the Colleges the challenge of management in MoFA.. how the manager plays a central role in setting the organizational climate, in motivating staff and encouraging high performance. I asked him what happens when someone becomes a District Director of Agriculture (Manager of a MoFA District office), he said... "not much".
In MoFA, promotions tend to be based more on seniority than any other factor, which results in technical experts becoming managers. It's great for a staff to excel in their technical knowledge- in crops, livestock, etc...and by all means, over time they deserve a raise and opportunities to grow in their career. However, I am unsure that merely promoting a technical officer to become a Director is the recipe for district success. Becoming a great manager is more than just getting a new title.

It's not so unlike Chieftancy, where much (if not all) learning takes place "on the job". I remember entering my Chief's room one day to hear him breathe deeply and remark: "Njallawuni, it's not easy being a leader!". He went on to explain some of the conflicts and challenges community members were bringing for him to solve. He certainly didn't pass through University, a 6 week course, or any formal educational structure to learn how to manage such situations effectively.

Many people quickly point to Leadership as the key solution to Africa's problem. I don't think it's as simple as that but don't entirely disagree... I do feel that developing people into leaders and managers will result in stronger leaders, and I acknowledge the important role of leaders in creating social change.. we need leaders who can catalyze change within their spheres of influence. Because at the end of the day, it is determined, intelligent, inspired, committed Ghanaians who will transform Ghana.

Friday, September 3, 2010

"Are you fasting?"


Living in a country that is not your own requires a buffet-style approach to dealing with differences that arise.

Having lived in Ghana for over a year now, I still find myself approaching the buffet of options... do I adapt, adopt, or object to this situation?

When you first come, in hopes of "integrating" into the culture, you do a lot of adopting. You observe what others do, and adopt that behaviour. Whether it is the way Ghanaians dress, greet, interact, etc...
But over time, you will definitely come across things you don't want to adopt, and some you may strongly object to. You might encounter reckless driving, sexual harassment, physical abuse, etc.
And then, many times, as a foreigner you chose to adapt. You take what they are doing and make it your own. You can't let compromise, compromise your own values. I am quite happy and comfortable living in Ghana, but that doesn't mean I act completely as every Ghanaian I interact with does, or that I still behave like a 100% Canadian girl...

Take this example. As you may know, I live with a Muslim family and right now is Ramadan- a month of prayer and fasting for Muslims.
Yesterday, a man came into the family compound and was greeting me in Dagbani. I was responding alright, and then he said something I'd never heard before in a greeting. I turned to one of the mummy's beside me- who is fluent in English- and asked what he said. She said, "He asked: "are you fasting?".

I responded: "well... somehow..." And they all laughed.

Typically, I always eat with the family.. whatever they eat, I eat. But during this month they only eat at night, and very early dawn.. the rest of the day they fast. I knew I didn't want to adopt this behaviour, as I am not a Muslim, and I know that in order to be effective at work I need to eat and drink and sleep well. But I didn't want to completely reject what they were doing, and isolate myself (any further). So in the morning "I fast".. when I'm at home and they are not eating, I too do not eat. But when I'm in town working, I eat and drink as I would. Then when I arrive home at night, I wait and eat dinner with them once they break their fast.

In this case, and in many others, I have chosen to adapt cultural practices of Dagombas here in Northern Ghana in a way that lets them know I respect them, but that I am also different, and I need to ensure I am happy and comfortable in Ghana. The longer you're away from your home country, the more conscious you have to be of who you are.. of not losing who you are in the midst of integration, compromise, and adaptability.

Its a delicate balance.. and its all part of this journey I'm on...

My daily life in Ghana: 6

Friday, August 6, 2010

Loss: reflections on 2 different boys, from 2 different countries


Meet Ashiraf, a 12 year old boy in Northern Ghana. After his parents divorced, his dad left Ghana in search of a better job, in Sweden. After a second marriage, several calls back to Ghana, and countless promises, he said he would be coming back to see Ashiraf, and, amongst other things, bring him a laptop.
1 week before his expected arrival, a phone call reaches Ghana; Ashiraf's dad has been killed in a car accident..

Meet Pat, A 23 year old Canadian boy; an economics graduate from McMaster University. Walking along the road, late in the middle of the night. He is hit and killed..

After the loss of Ashiraf's dad, the family was incredibly sad, and beyond the tragedy that he would now grow up without a father, there was a deep sadness over the loss of opportunity for the boy.. Ashiraf- currently being cared for by family and a mother struggling to make money by selling items in the market- dreamed of a better life, out of poverty, and thought that as soon as his dad came back everything would be different. And his life probably would have change, drastically. Maybe he'd even get to go "outside" (leave Ghana) for his education, which his dad promised him. Now, he's like so many other boys in Northern Ghana, struggling, hopeful, for something better in their future. But lacking opportunities to see those hopes come into fruition.

Losing any loved one, no matter what the age or circumstance, is incredibly painful and life is never the same again. Every human being, no matter what country or what economic status, has experienced some kind of loss.. Losing a grandma, a sister, a mom, a dog, a best friend, a brother, a boyfriend, a daughter. Unfortunately, to some death and loss are more commonplace, a frequent visitor to normal life.

I remember one of Ashiraf's "brothers", while others were crying, stoically saying: "Life is like that.. people enter. And people exit."

1 family loses a boy. 1 boy loses a dad.
2 different countries.
1 unfortunate, unexpected connection..

Loss.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Why I don't look like a hippie... anymore.


After nearly a year in Ghana I am temporarily back in Canada, and as I walk through a shopping mall, I'm surprised by how much I seem to fit in. Yet when I converse with strangers, people are often intrigued, if not shocked, that I've been in "Africa" for so long.
When you see me, I might be wearing jeans and a top, with matching accessories, or on a good day I'm in a pencil skirt, heels, some makeup and highlighted hair. When most people think about "volunteering to Africa", they are inclined to pack baggy, beige pants, flowing floor length peasant skirts, tank tops, hiking shoes, and beaded bracelets. And that's exactly what I often see in Ghana. Sometimes I cringe to see other ex-pats dressed in oversized, wrinkly clothes in professional offices. But I mean come on, its terribly hot, sunny, and this work is so much deeper than vanity is concerned, right?

After wearing birkenstocks, pony-tails, and wrinkled tops for probably far too many months, I now look different in Ghana. As much as my job has changed over the past year, my appearance (and vocabulary) too have been altered.

As I work more in Accra, attend conferences, and meet with MoFA staff at the National office in attempts to share the field realities we observe and influence in a more systematic way, I realize that I ought to dress the way I'd dress walking into an office in Toronto, not like I'd dress for a yoga class. Though this is Ghana, this is West Africa, its not all mud huts and eating food with your hands.. Ghana is a multifaceted country filled with professional, intelligent people.

The Ghana you might imagine may include images of poor children, poor education systems, malaria, crowded buses, and villages with no electricity or running water.. and this is accurate. This is tragic. But just as Toronto has both homeless people and lavish mansions, Ghana has as many cell phones as mud huts, as many high heels as wellington boots.

When I went to the field to meet with farmer groups teaching them business skills, I wore flip flops or wellington boots-depending on the season.
Now, as I work more in offices and less in the field(for better or for worse), I wear skirts and high heels to demonstrate credibility, professionalism, and respect.

As I continue to transform internally throughout this incredible experience, there will likely be continued observable external improvements, refinements to the person that "Robin" is.. some more visible than others.

And that my friends, among many other reasons, is why I don't look like a hippie..

anymore.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Keepin' cool in shades of Ghana

Underneath it all..

I love Ghana and I am overwhelmingly happy here. Most of my blog posts depict an optimistic picture. Most days I laugh and smile excessively. Most days I go to sleep so grateful.

But underneath it all, I still experience a great deal of frustration and sadness inside.

Life is hard in Ghana. Life is so hard in Ghana. I'm not referring to how hard it is for me, as a white, in Northern Ghana. No, not for me; life is hard for the average Ghanaian. A common response to the question: "how are you doing" here is: "Oh, we are managing... Small small". This really summarizes the situation of the vast majority of people I interact with here in Northern Ghana. They are just managing, and hopefully for most, "small small"; gradually- little by little- things are getting better.

Some days when I am feeling demotivated it is easy to blame it on the sweltering heat, blame it on lack of sleep, blame it on overwork and lack of time off., or maybe its because I haven't been eating well, haven't been exercising.. but really, days like today, I have to acknowledge that underneath it all, sometimes the daily tragedies just get to me.

In lieu of the fact that I want to always present an honest picture of my personal experiences here, I share these feelings openly and candidly with you- wherever/whoever you are. I respect and appreciate the time you take to connect to my life and I send you my love and gratitude as I sit here, blessed fan blowing on my face, thermometer telling me it is 35.5 degrees, Sulemana sleeping beside me with his hand on my lap.


I really love you all.

Oh! the places you go!

As explained in the previous post, my current role in Ghana has required me to travel a great deal throughout this nation, (been to 7 Regions in Ghana), and even beyond these borders briefly.
Instead of providing an in depth summary of my movements, I thought I would write a few key words that come to mind when I think of my time at each of the various places.
Burkina Faso- real fresh amazing yoghurt, baguettes, children dancing and singing, feeling ashamed of my inability to speak French, bathing and sleeping in the open with the sun/moon right above you.
Ohawu Agricultural College- (Volta Region, Ghana)-Eating too much Kenke, huge dam that everyone claims they own, power outages, being aggressively challenged on the relevance and sustainability of EWB's work.
Nigeria- Amazing ice cream parlour that even had banana splits, nicely paved roads and street lights, Western clothing and lifestyles.
Pong Tamale Animal Health and Production College (Vet. College, Northern Region, Ghana)- Sheep everywhere, great food (spaghetti!) and connections with female students, dedicated principal who I know will facilitate transformative change at this college.
Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology (Kumasi, Ashanti Region, Ghana)- passionate Christian youth worshipping God, beautiful tropical gardens, trees, forests everywhere, coolness!
Bolgatanga (Upper East Region, Ghana)- rastas wanting to "be my friend", great beaded jewellery and vibrant Ghanaian cloth everywhere. Spending too much money.
Kwadaso Agricultural College (Kwadaso, Ashanti Region, Ghana)- lots of cows roaming around, magnificent, enormous trees, projector that didn't work, amazing professors and principal, missing Carissa (past volunteer).
Accra (Greater Accra Region, Ghana)- watching Avatar in an amazing movie theatre while eating popcorn!, Airport- filled with mixed emotional memories, eating too many scoops of real ice cream, packed streets and traffic like you can't imagine, gaining weight.
Tamale (Northern Region, Ghana): friends everywhere I go, a great ("great" as in: wonderful, and as in very large) family, comfort in knowing where to buy things I need and how to get around, riding on my moto, eating dried pineapple, greeting people in Dagbani, great Canadian friends/colleagues.

"Surname: STRATAS, Given Name: ROBIN REBECCA... Occupation: ___________?"

As a group of Canadians (all Africa Program Staff from Ghana) travelled across the Ghana/Burkina Faso border, in addition to pathetic attempts at bilingualism, we filled out the necessary forms. Mostly straightforward... I filled in my name, my passport number and expiration date, my current mailing address, and the reason for my visit to Burkina.. but then, just when I thought I had it covered, just when I thought I was almost finished this mind-numbing activity, I became stumped: "Occupation:_________". My immediate reaction was to peak on my colleague's sheet, as I had done for some other parts of the form, to see what they had written: "ENGINEER". Well okay, my engineering colleagues have it a bit easier. That won't work for me though. So I sat and thought: okay, how can I summarize and describe what I do in about 20 letters?
I settled on the most general, vague, indistinct title I could: "Development Worker".
Upon further thought, I realized that just in the same way I found it difficult to tell a border official- who doesn't care at all- what I do, I haven't been able to effectively communicate to Canadians about my work here.
I know that blog posts like these can become long, boring, confusing, so I will do my very best to be concise. If you have further questions- please ask me. I really appreciate all comments and questions on this blog.

So for simplicity's sake let's say that my work is focused in 3 general areas:
1) Working at MADU- a Ministry of Food and Agric (MoFA) District office. Here I have primarily been training Field Staff (a core group of 10) on implementing a curriculum with farmer groups, that EWB developed called Agriculture as a Business. Main goals of this practical curriculum are to 1) strengthen existing farmer groups, and 2) develop farmers' agribusiness skills and abilities to increase profits. Here, I've also been generally building the capacity of the staff: trainings and workshops on "Quality Extension", and Goal setting, individual etc. Here is where I have made some amazing friends with incredibly dedicated, underpaid field staff, and had the chance to interact face to face, on fields and under mango trees, with the farmers I am ultimately working on behalf of. The first part of my placement was mostly focused here, at MADU. I am now transitioning out of this position.

2) Working in Agricultural Colleges- This work was previously being undertaken by Carissa Vados, incredible volunteer who is now back in Canada. I am following up with her work at the Vet College (AHPC) on developing a course outline for a new class on entrepreneurship- designed to address the current challenge of unemployment in graduates, and to provide overall inspiration for students to be innovative. Further, I am now also working at Kwadaso Agric College (these are likely the 2 best Agric colleges of the 5 in the country), also pushing an Entrepreneurship course which already exists, and also enhancing the Extension curriculum to be more farmer-first, participatory approach, innovative, and inclusive of agribusiness skills. At this school I am also piloting an Entrepreneur Competition which, depending on success, could be scaled up to all colleges next year. I am super excited about this initiative, because after personally spending time at a district, and hearing of all my colleagues frustrations at various districts, I am excited about addressing one of the root causes by improving the quality of education, so graduates already have the key knowledge, skills and attitudes before they enter the workforce.

3) Finally, I work for EWB to support our staff here on team MoFA: this means that I am responsible for the Junior Fellowship Program in Ghana (this summer we will receive 8-14 University students who will spend 4 months in Ghana), as well as training new Africa Program Staff, coaching and supporting staff, facilitating workshops at team meetings, tracking health and safety, coaching and managing our (Ghanaian) National Service Volunteer, Adam etc.
You can see that the work I do is rich in diversity but there is still quite a bit of overlap. All involves people, and some form of education. All that I do is ultimately driven by a desire to improve the lives of Ghanaian farmers.. I believe that through building the capacity of field staff, agric students, and the Canadian staff who engage with Ghanaians, we can make a lasting difference for Dorothy. All of my work is also driven by a love and desire to work with people and help them grow from where they are to a better place; my desire is to help people become more joyous, fulfilled, and enriched; and to help them become better human beings overall. My blog is called Addicted to Impact because, like any addiction, I can't get enough. There will never be a day I say, "Okay, my work is done. The world is now perfect". I believe there will always be ways, in every single day, that I can be used to make an impact in someone's life.

"Do all the good you can, by all the means you can, in all the ways you can, in all the places you can, at all the times you can, to all the people you can, as long as ever you can."- John Wesley.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

These are a few of my favourite things....!

I often have Ghanaians and Canadians ask me "Why do you love Ghana so much", and I find its not so easy to articulate.
In this post, I will deal less with the work I am doing and more about the culture in Ghana. I recognize that although many elements of the culture didn't surprise me- as it's my second time to Ghana- you, in other places in the world, may be interested in what makes Ghana such an amazing country, and why I'm glad to call it my home.

So here are a few of my favourite things:

- Greetings are crucial. Every morning people ask you how you slept, and about your health, your family, your work, your tiredness, the coolness... its sweet, and touching, and definitely more in depth than what you hear in Canada.
-I have many "friends". Most people I buy something from tell me they want to be my friend. I now have many friends- Naima who I buy phone credit from, Mama Fatia who I buy juice and bread from, the guys at the internet cafe, guys at the gas stations, etc. Whereas in Canada, most times you enter a store, buy something, say "have a nice day" and leave. Here- I now have relationships with people, and when I travel they will even call and ask where I am and when I'm coming back!
- Local food is everywhere. I love to buy pineapple on the street, bananas, oranges, dried fruits, eat yams, local rice, tomatoes, ground nuts, and pepe! Mmmm! This is not to say that there isn't a problem with imported food- there is- but if you try you can eat deliciously local food any day of the week.
- Everyone has faith, and they are just happy if you have faith. People are not judgmental of other religions. They freely talk about and display their views- big stickers on cars/taxis, name their shops "By God's Grace", and openly ask you if you are a Christian or a Muslim.. but what I love is that they are just happy that you believe in God. There is little animosity between Muslims and Christians. Most Ghanaians have a strong faith in God and pray and worship very regularly.
- People of all ages are engaged in politics. Unlike Canada, where even 20 year olds are uninterested in voting, I can talk to my 12 year old Ghanaian brother for 30 minutes while he tells me every detail of the last elections- who won, the number of votes, the drama, the campaigns. Politics is fun and omnipresent here- they have songs, jingles and commercials, posters everywhere, and give away t-shirts like you can't imagine. You can't find a village without one Political tshirt being proudly worn.
- Ghanaians love foreigners- for the most part. Most people see me and immediately want to make sure I'm well, and offer their help- whether its helping me to carry a bag, get me a taxi, water, a seat, or a husband! I've been to other countries that are hostile towards Whites/Westerners.. so it is lovely that most Ghanaians are EXTREMELY hospitable and love to welcome foreigners.
- I don't use a lot of water. I wash myself with a bucket of water. I don't have a flushing toilet or a running tap. My water consumption is FAR less than I could dream of in Canada.
- People love to eat and always "invite you" to join them. The portions in Ghana are generally HUGE and are mostly carbs. Anytime you encounter someone eating, they "invite you" to join them to eat. Its a friendly gesture, and all of this has combined to help me gain some pounds since living in Ghana!
- People generally say what;s on their mind- pretty directly. People will call an Albino- Albino, a white person- a white person, they will tell you when you are growing fat, when your outfit is not nice, when you need to iron, they will ask you why you have pimples, and will tell you they are going to urinate. It's hilarious and refreshing. In Canada people can be so "politically correct" that they beat around the bush. It's both funny and shocking at times to hear people speak the truth in Ghana.
- People are very active. Especially in the North, MOST people walk or ride bicycles for great distances. It's rare for people to have cars- unless they work for an NGO or the Government.
- Ghanaians love to laugh. Almost every conversation includes some type of joke- either they ask you to marry them, or tell you they will "follow you" back to Canada- and from the Ghanaians I've met- they often have a full, hearty laugh. Most social interaction and even work meetings include many jokes and opportunities to laugh.
- People are free. You don't see many people who look stressed out. People have a good work/life balance, are not afraid to nap in the day time, to take a long lunch break, and deal with life's daily annoyances and challenges with peace and calmness.
- Ghanaians can be AMAZING story tellers. Many are naturally very dramatic, and so when they tell a story, they get their whole body into it, use gestures, various different voices and impersonations, and the end result is always a group of people bursting into laughing, shaking each others hands.
- Many Ghanaians love music and to dance. Every cultural event includes dancing- even funerals, and from age 3 children have rhythm and can dance better than me!
- Most food is eaten with your hands, and its not rude to lick or suck your fingers clean! I'm a pretty kinesthetic person and like to get dirty, so its fun to put some of our Canadian manners and etiquette aside and just dig in to a delicious meal!


That's all for now.. just a few of my favourite things about living in Ghana! This post was not to insult Canada, but to highlight some of the differences I've come to enjoy. I hope you've gotten a taste of the daily moments of joys I experience here.

Love Robin

Becoming comfortable with the uncomfortable..

These last few months have been busy, to say the least.
With plenty of travel, and time spent in 5 different regions of Ghana, hours spent on buses and semi-conscious states of mind have enabled me to really think about what I'm thinking about... and how far I've come since arriving in September.

And I realized 1 sad conclusion, amidst a dozen happy conclusions (look forward to next post on my favourite things!)... I have become comfortable with the uncomfortable.
When I first came to Ghana, many things caused some level of internal discomfort....
People on the side of the road with torn clothes, begging for money. Children walking around selling water for 5cents instead of being at school, mass piles of garbage being burned, farmers losing all of their rice due to bush burning, farmers losing all of their rice due to flooding, children being smacked on a daily basis, children crying and no one acknowledging them, women breastfeeding on the side of the road while begging for money, children not attending due to school as a result of financial difficulties, family members arguing with one another over 10 cents..

When I first came, poverty really upset me. Sometimes I wanted to cry. Sometimes I did cry. But recently, as I traveled from one region to another, the differences started coming back to me again- I was seeing things with fresh eyes, and realized just "how well I've adapted to life in Ghana".

I have become comfortable with the uncomfortable.